This Kirk Pacenti rim was designed with critical input and feedback from Fairwheel Bikes; to say that we’re excited about the SL23 may be a bit of an understatement. This rim brings together several of our favorite rim design elements, including wide profile, aerodynamic shape, and tubeless-friendly compatibility, along with stout construction and a balanced compromise between strength and weight.
“SL23” may strike some as a misnomer, since this rim actually measures in at a solid 24.5 mm. Despite its slightly wider cross section, the SL23 is meant to compete with the increasingly popular 23 mm wide road rims. For reference, a road rim historically has measured in widths between 19 and 21 mm. The benefit of a wider rim is that the tire bead hooks are spread further apart, simultaneously rounding out the tire’s profile and increasing the tire’s internal air volume. This allows the use of lower tire pressures, increasing rider comfort while decreasing rolling resistance. Also, when using a standard 23mm-wide tire, a small improvement in aerodynamics will be experienced through a smoother airflow transition between the rim sidewall and tire.
The SL23 features an incredibly strong internally sleeved and welded seam. Following welding, the rim’s braking surfaces are machined smooth and parallel for the best possible braking response. Wear indicators on both sides serve as an indispensable safety feature, signaling when the rim sidewall has become too thin to sustain the forces exerted by the tire’s air pressure.
Version Two, Released April 17th 2015
After over a year and half of sales the Sl23 had become incredibly popular with riders and wheel builders alike. In April 2015 Pacenti released the first update to the rim to make three small changes to further improve building and riding. The rim is now 2.3mm wider internally — while only increasing .5mm externally — and has lower bead hooks further supporting the tire and increasing tire volume. The bead well is deeper making installing and changing tires easier. Finally the spoke bed is thicker allowing wheel builders to use higher spoke tensions and improving overall durability of every SL23 wheelset. Every rim we sell and build with is the newest version unless otherwise noted — "V1" is used on our website and invoices to designate the older version. Furthermore you can tell if a rim is the newer version by the decaling the new version is marked with its 589mm ERD while the older version is marked 588mm.
Note on Braking Track
Due to the smaller width braking track on the most recent version of the Pacenti SL23, we recommend the use of Kool-Stop Dura 2 pads for maximum stopping power and ideal ride quality.
|Outer Width||24.5 mm|
|Internal Width||20.3 mm|
|Available Drillings||20, 24, 28, 32 hole|
|Tire Compatibility||clincher, 700c (ISO 622)|
Posted by Jerome
I was looking forward to riding on these but rim joining sleeve comes loose and rattles, super glue sometimes works but only for a while. Front rim braking always judders even when the pads are set with toe in. Sadly a wast of time and money.
I'm now using my DT Swiss wheel set while I contemplate another rim on my Tune hubs instead of the Pacenti's
Durable, good wheels
Posted by Brendan
I've been riding and racing these (v1 rims) for 2 years now. I'm a cat 3 and weigh around 155. I used nipple washers on the rear drive side, 24/28 hole, and have had zero issues. Would recommend! New tires are tough but I've found they go on fine if you set them up with a tube inside for a day or two before attempting to mount tubeless. About to replace the rims (will use SL23s again) because the handy dandy rim wear indicator is almost gone.
Cracking and creaking
Posted by Unknown
Sleeves that are peened on this rim often fail, jiggle loose and rattle. That's if they last long enough before the nipple holes crack. Even the new version 2 is starting to show cracks at the nipple after some mileage. This despite the fact that tension is well below the max recommended 125kgf, or about 110-115 kgf depending on the build. Oddly, the SL25 disc model has been great.
Tire mounting can be difficult, but you have to do two things:
1. Always use tubeless tape.
2. Always push the tire bead into the center before trying to roll the last bead onto the rim - I've done it with my fingers, with the right technique. So many cyclists have no idea the benefit of the deep center channel in the rim, and why it's there.
I'd happily give them away
Posted by Unknown
I had a set of 650B wheels made with these rims and have decided to scrap the rims and reuse the hubs with a new set of rims. I was never successful in mounting a set of tires on these rims, I ended up taking them to my LBS to mount. I broke more tire levers on these rims than all other wheel sets combined. FWIW this experience is not unique. BTW I emailed Pacenti asking for advice and never received a response.