Shimagnolo Di2

[pritchet74]

Nice!

[dunlinii]

Thats cool

[pritchet74]

It looks awesome because its so stealth, but I don't know how functional the buttons are there. I have some on order though just to be sure. Besides, those buttons have great potential to be placed in different places.

So many buttons, so little time.....

[mdeth1313]

Of course, this means if you're pressing all her buttons (to maximize her riding pleasure, as well as yours), you'll have to find her "b-spot". I know where the b-stay is on her, now you need to find the b-spot and report back.


sorry, board of ed meeting went until 11 last night, I'm still up at 5am.

[pritchet74]

[ferrarista]

WOW Jeff this is great!! I thought about this couple months ago , but I have no electrical skills lol.

best placement ergonomically for the switches are like the shimano di2 or where you put them right now. but it looks butt ugly with those big switches. something more low profile would be better later on. For testing right now is not really important.

I think for a stealth setup the best would be like the mavic buttons placement. and maybe put a second set of switches on the bar like coloclimber or on the thumb side of the shifter nicely trimmed. also I think the switch that coloclimber and Madcow are using is the best. you don't really need big buttons.
you can also see in this pic that he trimmed the plastic on the switch and used double sided 3M tape to hold it.






I would put the switch closer to the hood and when you wrap the bar tape , you wrap it over the switch and then with surgical blade you cut the holes for the buttons.


I was also thinking if it would be possible to use the stock campy paddle shifter and integrate only the buttons from the switch that madcow and coloclimber use. the wires put them in small black shrink tubing and sticking it to the back of the paddle shifter and make it go through the hole and in the shifter body. then you would have to find a way to keep the paddle fixed so there is no lateral play like the stock motion, but keep the front-back movement when your braking. This I think would be the best in ergonomics and also appearence. you would easily be able to shift from the hoods or the drops like your current setup.



what do you think?

[petal666]

What about using membrane switches like in a keyboard?

[jever98]

Does anybody know if you can buy the connectors that Shimano uses? Would be great to have 'plug and play' modding opportunities.

[Ypsylon]

Short answer, nope.

[jever98]

Sucks. What about using those that were cut off from the battery harness?

[petal666]

I found some idea buttons for remote switches, 6mm square, IP67 'water proof' flat tactile buttons.
http://au.farnell.com/omron-electronic- ... /dp/959728

Now I just need to manufacture or get hold of some plugs to go into the levers.

I found some even smaller ones, not water proof though, that could be recessed into the internal lever of the campy ergolevers.
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... &R=0516079

[pritchet74]

So I got a few pairs (just in case) of the Cateye buttons. Awesome setup. These would be SO easy to switch from my road setup to the TT setup. More on that later though.

So I put one button on the backside of the lever and one on the inside of hood - so the setup is just about identical to Campy Ergopower. I just did the right lever though - I left the left lever with my original setup. This way I could compare both setups. Anyways - at the start of the ride I was absolutely loving it. Then as my ride progressed, I wasn't loving it as much. I think I might prefer my original buttons - they are bigger, which is great ergonomically, but just fugly. I am going to tweak the position of the button on the back of the lever, then put both buttons down there. The beauty of the Cateye buttons is the versitility of position possibilities. More to come - including pictures....

[pritchet74]

Alright - so I moved the buttons around and tossed both on the back of the brake lever. It's much smaller than the original set of buttons I started with, so it looks MUCH better. It's definitely not "final" since I need to find out what material I will use to connect it to the lever. Right now I have both buttons stacked upon each other and slid into the back of the lever. When I did the ride Friday, the single button I had there was almost flat to the back of the lever. The buttons need to point straight out to the side. So, since I am about 5 Maker's Mark & Coke's into the evening, I cut up some rubber shim strips I had in the tool box (I needed something to fill the ~3mm of space from the back of the button to the inside surface of the carbon lever blade) to get the buttons to point in the right direction. The a proper dose of electrical tape got everything held into place. A quick ride up and down the street to check it out and I think that we are approaching the final prototype.

This should be close to the final ineration for me. I just need to get a piece of plastic I can Dremel into the right shape to connect the buttons to and fit inside the back of the lever blade. No rush on that though - I want to make sure that I have it exactly right first...





The left lever still has the original setup. Functionally perfect, but just way too big and bulky.


I will get the final wire splicing done later this week (hopefully) - I have to show you guys how I am attaching it to the harness - it's the cat's meow - and it'll be quick to switch to identical buttons on my aerobars. Way cool.

Also, the reason the left lever hasn't been updated is that I cut the cable from the Cateye buttons to their connector piece. Not sure why - I think my mind was just spinnin' and I had some idea in my head. That turned out to be a big mistake though as both wires had 2 wires inside, but only one had it's own plastic casing. The other was just a bare wire! Damnit! So I would have to splice the bare wires from both buttons together to connect to the negative wire on the harness. That's just an ugly that I didn't want to deal with. Now though - that bastard pair of buttons will get soldered to the connection piece (more on that later) and it'll be my bartop buttons for the rear derailleur on the road bars and the buttons by my brake lever for the rear derailleur on the TT setup. So all's not lost. I have another set of buttons arriving Monday. I should have ordered 3 sets though. 2 for the TT setup and an extra for the road setup. Damn. Now I have to order 1 more set. Double shipping charge. That sucks.

Do you know what doesn't suck though? The fact that I have Di2 and I get to use my beloved Campy 10s levers.

[Fuchs]

can you still shift from above? or how long are your fingers?
how is it with braking?

[pritchet74]

Yes, shifting from the hoods is perfect. Fingertip for the lower button, knuckle hits the higher button. Shifting from the drops is perfect too. Normal size fingers and hands (medium gloves). Perfect with braking. I don't run my brakes so that I can get the lever to hit the bars (not that it's an option with the Hooker brakes).