Taking my Di2 Internal, and the trip to Colorado, FINISHED!

[colorchange]

Thanks Pritchet. I really appreciate your opinions and input.

Here is what I"m planning to do. Will you please share any of your wisdom or opinions?

Junction Cable
I think I am just going to enlarge the regular shifting cable stop and use that for the junction wire. I should be able to drill it out but leave enough so that it will still work as a cable stop. Not quite as clean as yours but I don't have to go into the frame that way. I'm thinking of cutting the junction cable near the small connector end (near the BB), then feeding the cable through the shift cable port on the down tube through the bottom of the BB, do the wire splicing outside the BB, then connect the wire to the lower junction thingy and tucking it all inside the BB.

FD Cable
I can feed the FD cable down through the existing FD frame hole, connect it to the lower junction thingy, then stuff it back up inside the BB.

RD Cable
Easily feeds through the hole in the end of the chainstay and then fish the wire through the BB hole, connect to lower junction thingy and stuff inside BB.

Battery Cable
I plan to connect the battery cable to the lower junction thingy and then stuff it inside the BB. I plan to temporarily mount the battery using the screw hole on the underside of the BB.

Shifter Cables
Temporarily route them on the outside of my (internal channeled) handlebars. If the wire splicing of the Junction Cable goes well, I will then refit and splice them inside the handlebars.

Are the wires color coded inside the cables or do I need to check continuity?

[pritchet74]

Everything sounds good, but I don't see how you will mount the battery. If you have it sorted out then just be sure to post pics in the gallery when its all done.

Yes, the wires are all color coded. It should be common sense, but be sure the battery is disconnected before you start cutting and splicing wires.

Good luck!

[colorchange]

Thanks man, having your approval makes tearing into this stuff a lot lower stress!

[coloclimber]

You can also pull the Shimano patents for wiring/color diagrams but its really not necessary.S3 and SLC-SL are one of the easiest frames to modify for internal routing.

[colorchange]

OK, have the wire running through the down tube but had to remove the zip ties (to stop rattling). Do I need to worry about it as I can think of no way to get zip ties or much of anything else up the wire inside the down tube to prevent rattles. Any thoughts? Maybe some rubber o-rings I could push up with some straws but don't know how much good they would do?

[pritchet74]

Mine rattles a bit too. I don't even notice it though. Maybe with round tubes the zip-ties work, but they didn't do shit for my frame. Silly aero tubes, eh? It's like having a super hot wife that can't cook. You just deal with having to do the cooking yourself.

(I will say that my super hot wife is an awesome cook. I just wanted to make that clear.)

[colorchange]

OK, I thought I would just deal with it. Thanks.

[eliflap]

some ideas of a mtb application ?

[pritchet74]

It's awesome as a MTB group - the guys at the Fairwheel Bikes shop have done it to at least one MTB and from what I hear it's gotten great reviews.

[eliflap]

i red it in the april issue of italian edition of MBAction

but it's a Dura Ace rear der ... it fits a 11-32 cassette , i used too on my Scalpel

but cannot work with a larger cog ...

so my question is : are the electronic Dura Ace cages replaceable ? inner and outer cages are often changed with carbon ones ...

so i thought they can be replaced with carbon XTR ones to have a bigger teeth cacacity and be able to accept a 11.36T XX cassette too

[madcow]

Jeff, I just realized that I never replied in this thread. I just wanted to say that you and nathan did a great job. It looks really clean.

It is pretty cool but think of all the time you could have saved with a wireless system. I bet Madcow has one hidden away that he is not allowed to discuss and for some crazy reason it will show up on XC build or something like a town bike build.

Close but not exact. Can't say more for a couple months still.

i red it in the april issue of italian edition of MBAction

but it's a Dura Ace rear der ... it fits a 11-32 cassette , i used too on my Scalpel

but cannot work with a larger cog ...

so my question is : are the electronic Dura Ace cages replaceable ? inner and outer cages are often changed with carbon ones ...

so i thought they can be replaced with carbon XTR ones to have a bigger teeth capacity and be able to accept a 11.36T XX cassette too

Eli, A DA der is the only option for now(there has been some discussion of playing with a Nexave Di2 derailleur, but I have my doubts about that.) Anyway, yes the cages can be replaced, Dark Albert can do a set of custom ones for you. The custom cages are typically done to allow for larger pulleys for which they work great. However in this case it's the parallelogram of the derailleur that is the limiting factor and not the cages. A custom cage would probably give a little extra clearance provided you are using a 10t upper, but probably not enough to switch to a 34t and still have clearance.

[eliflap]

thanks for tips and reply

i solved a problem with a 10T upper

run a X.0 long cage 9 speeds derailleur with a 11-36T XX 10speeds cassette

[Cyco]

Wouldn't it be easier to make the derailleur hanger a few mm longer to give the clearance?

[philischen]

Nice job on the DI2...

But my eyes also see something else interesting for me... BLACK SRM CRANK ARMS on a SRM Pro

Any info on that??? Painted? If original, where to get???

Tanks a lot...

[Nick S]

I have an email from Cervelo that I received last week that says it does invalidate your warranty if you drill the frame anywhere for internal Di2 routing?