Sram RD tuning

[Boonen]

Nice job Xav

If you use buttonhead bolts for the adjustment bolts you'll save a little more weight and the derailleur will look much cleaner. The tension bolt could do without a head completely and can also be half the length of what you put in now.
Also I think you'll run into trouble with that buttonhead bolt holding the upper pulley wheel? I noticed it on the pictures cococlimber posted as well, on my bike that would definitely hit the spokes of the rear wheel when in the lightest gear. You might want to double check that before you start riding. As for the shape of the backplate, if you copy the new original plate of the new force/red derailleur in stead of the old one (like I did in the beginning as well) you will gain a few grams but the shifting will be much better and you won't run into the chain problems the force derailleur had.

[Xav]

Boonen , Thanks for all the tips , but for this tuning I have already push my self with patience and time , and I'm limited with tools , but doing it make me realize that I think a Red derailleur can be under 100 gr working properly.
Where do you get buttonhead bolts ?

Maybe you can help me I broke One clip of my shifter and can't find one here , do you know where to find or even better maybe have some look at this link http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/sram-333 ... lsize.html

I'm looking for the first part from the left in the number 4 Section.Thanks in advance .

Xav

[Boonen]

I think you're right, the way the Red is built compared to the old Force you should be able to get it close to 100 grams in good working order.
I get most of my bolts from Yaeger in Germany, ProBolt in the UK has a lot of bolts as well especially bike specific bolts both in Ti and alu. You could also try contacting FairWheelBikes or have a look at Toronto Cycles on e-bay. The last one is the only one I don't have experience with myself but people seem happy about their products.

What you're looking for for the shifter I think is called a c-clip, they are used on a few other bikeparts as well, f.i. a front derailleur so if you have an old one laying around you could have a look at that? Most bikeshops should have those but maybe they are hard to get in Thailand? I'm sure Madcow will know what size these are

[Robin v berkel]

hi Boonen

why is link insde of you sram red alu not carbon ? is alu lichter ?


and damn i love you tune on sram red do you got some foto how you cut alu on fron side where normal say RED ?

[Boonen]

Hi Robin. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by the alu link?
It's a force derailleur, are you asking about pictures made during the tuning? The front plate was opened up by drilling it and then cutting and grinding away with a small cutting discs.

I don't have many pictures of it but maybe this helps? It's taken before the polishing.

[kim-joshy]

jersey cycles or toronto on ebay ,they are owned by two brothers sell ti and alloy bolts ,i have bought from both heaps of times ,they are a a good seller .last month i did not receive a set of skewers by mail and they just sent a new set for free ,

[jersland]

Boonen :

I find this thread extremely interesting! How did you remove the 4 pivoting pins and are the reusable? If they arent reusable can you point in the right direction to find them?

Thanks
Justin

[Boonen]

Hi Justin, welcome to the forum!

There's a small head on the pivoting pins, you can pry them out with a small thin screwdriver. They are sat in plastic bushings, they take a bit of persuasion but should come out by just pulling. Once you get them out you can just push them in again by the time you're done. If you have a Red derailleur the pins are aluminum, the one's in the Force derailleur I tuned (Red wasn't out yet) are steel. Because of that I replaced them with 4mm titanium rods.

Hope this is of any help, let us know how you get along?

[jersland]

Thanks for the tips. Will be working on this for the next couple days. I have the 2010 Force RD. Where can I get Ti pivot pins? I will be sure to post some progress shots.

[jhpbk]

Hi,
Hope its allright for me to post my attempt on tuning a red rear mech.
The mech, is going on a bike that is aimed to be sub 10lbs, so every gram counts.
Some people say I have butchered it slightly, but I will see what you think...




Cheers
Josh..

[Ypsylon]

Looks good.

Would you mind sharing what you did a bit? I think I see some drillium?

[jhpbk]

Indeed i can..

Started out with a tuning kit from XX-Light-Bikes, which included the all the bolts and the jockey wheels, which saved 18grams to start off with.

But then the Dremel came out, the inner and outer mech cages are the stock ones, but with the extra carbon shaved off. The outer plate ended up weighing 2grams, which is the same as Fibre-Lytes lightest offering.
Basically all the clear coating was taken off the carbon, then I spent ages looking at how it moved, and where i thought i could take of/drill holes, without causing to much damage.

I left all the metal work untouched, so some weight could be saved there, but i dont have the right tools to go at it.
Currently working on the shifters as well, similar things happening with them.

Obviously i will have to wait and see how it lasts, but i have had it on a bike, and it still shifts perfectly.

Cheers
Josh..

[Ypsylon]

Basically all the clear coating was taken off the carbon,

Did you add some sort of UV-protection? Not that I know if it's necessary or not...

[jhpbk]

Well..
A guy i work with, does a lot of car body work. And he has dealt with un-finished carbon before.
He seems to think that there is no real need for any protection, but he says he has some carbon protection stuff, that you put on. Its like a new clear coat layer, but still keeping the matte finish.

I haven't used it as yet, but may try it out before using the bike to much,

[dunlinii]

I think it looks better 'butchered'. What sort of tools do you need to have a go at the metal work?