madcow wrote:Boonen wrote:Madcow, could you tell me the weight of the rear derailleur like it is mounted on the bike, with the KCNC pulleys and the tuning bolts?
About 1-2 grams heavier than it was stock.
As for the tunability of the parts, different people would reach different opinions. For just bolt tuning there is practically nothing you can do, as everything is already ti or aluminum. If you really wanted to save weight, you'd have to start changing parts and drilling.
I haven't been allowed to take a Red derailleur apart yet and I don't ride Sram so don't feel like buying one myself just to experiment with, but I'm quite sure that most bolts that you are looking to replace with Ti bolts are already aluminium. Only thing that I'm not sure about is the pivot rods, could somebody check those with a magnet? I used Ti just to make sure it would be strong enough but there are plastic bushings on the inside preventing wear of the rods so aluminium or even carbon tubing shouldn't pose a problem. Nice side info is that it's the same size (4mm) as the pivot rods in a Record FD so you can use the same material on both derailleurs
As for the cable adjustment bolt, that whole insert thing is rather heavy and I don't completely understand whey Sram went for this solution but think is must have to do with production processes as it's easy to mount and take out. What I did was take it out, drill through and largen the hole, tap M8 thread in there and then weld an aluminum M8 bolt in there that I later ground down flush with the rest of the derailleur. I went the easy way but I guess if you're a good welder you could skip the tapping part and just fill/close the hole with welds. Once it's done I doubt you could really see a difference though.
After that I drilled in a new hole tapping it with M5 thread and used a regular bolt what I also drilled out. You can buy both M5 and M6 aluminium adjustment bolts though which look nicer, but I decided to just use what I had around for now. With Shimano and Campagnolo derailleurs the angle at which the cable leaves the adjustment bolt matters for the precision of the shifting. If you mess things up there the derailleur will shift differently. On the Sram derailleurs there is a cable guide directing the pull of the cable so essentially it doesn't matter how you drill the new hole for the cable to go through. The cable won't rub at it at an angle either so there is no need for a steel insert like on the DA derailleurs. Just try and get it as straight and in the same position as the stock adjuster and you'll be fine.