KCNC K-Type RD2 Compact Road Crankset

[stevef069]

Having a lot of problems with the K Type Crank. Impossible so far in getting the float out of the arms when installed to factory specs. Non drive side lock ring when tightened to spec binds against the Scandium BB and impedes rotation. Next, a very annoying 'click' from the BB when pushing hard on the pedal, multiple adjustments won't remove and It drives me crazy, especially when climbing. I'm really stumped in how to remove the crank arms from the ISIS Scandium BB, standard extractors don't do it. PLEASE, can anyone help me with this.

[Fibre-Lyte]

Next, a very annoying 'click' from the BB when pushing hard on the pedal, multiple adjustments won't remove and It drives me crazy, especially when climbing

Are you sure that's the crank? I had the same problem on my Storck and for ages I thought it was the crank. I eventually discovered it was my pedals!

[Ypsylon]

I've seen a couple of these in action and they were all trouble free, except for one, where the left crank arm kept coming lose. We dicovered that my buddy had missed to install a spacer. I'm assuming you've double checked that, but that could be the reason for the NDS arm binding up.

It's been a while since I got to play with one, but doesn't the crank have self extracting bolts? I think it does, but I could be wrong.

In my experience they run smoothly and trouble free and it will be difficult to figure out what exactly isn't right over the internet, but we definetly need more info, like what exactly are you using and what are the multiple adjustments you're speaking of?

[stevef069]

Pedal problem I did not consider, so I will remove, check for bearing wear, grease the threads and reinstall. Had no previous issues with the Ultegra pedals but should investigate all possibilities. Thanks for suggesting, will follow up. Regarding crank removal, the k type/Scandium BB is an ISIS variant. Hollow, to reduce weight I imagine, and has no splines. The crank bolts, also hollow, thread into the BB. I can not tell if the crank arms thread onto the spindle and standard extractors don't work. The bike I bought used and the previous owner had them installed while going to school in London so he has no ideas. KCNC support has been non existent, they just don't respond. You mention a spacer, the only spacers/washers I see are for the pedal bolts and one between the non drive side crank bolt and cap. Where exactly would spacer be incorporated, this may be the problem based on your remarks. To this point I have removed and retensioned all the threaded components that don't require removing the arms since I haven't figured that out yet. Thanks to all for your input.

[Ypsylon]

I really wish I could remember better, but I think we put a spacer between the bb and the NDS crank arm.

A friend of mine who doesn't speak English all that well got his crank with a manual in English and thought the washer was there to somehow wash, as in clean, the bike. I thought that was really funny, so that's the part I remember.

Following the manual the installation was a piece of cake and I don't think my buddy ever had a problem with his crank. I wonder if the manual is available online somewhere.

[stevef069]

I have done extensive online searches for instruction manual(s) and all I find are two, on page .pdf versions, one for the crank and the other for the BB and both are unclear and contradictory in many descriptions. At this point would anyone have a suggestion for removing the crank arms. There is no self extracting bolt, and with a hollow core spindle the usual crank removers just don't work. Getting this accomplished would help a lot as I can't even replace them if I can't get them off. Thanks for all your comments.

[l33boy]

Hi, not sure if you'll have already sorted this but getting them off is really quite easy.
Both sides have a long hollow bolt that take a 10mm socket or allen key.
The NDS crank 'should' have an extraction cap screwed in.
Just use a 10mm socket or allen key to unscrew the bolt.
If there is no extraction cap then unscrew both of the bolts then gently tap the cranks with a piece of wood and they should come loose. The scandium axle is splined but does have a taper, so once it starts to move it will pull straight off.
There may be thread lock on the bolts, so you may need some force to get them to budge.

[dspaulson]

Any update on the crank issues? I found this thread because I'm having a similar problem with the binding.

I just tried installing my RD2 crankset tonight, and have no issues with the extraction of the arms, but the damn things bind like crazy if I tighten them down with reasonable torque. I'm somewhat afraid to ride them since I don't have access to my torque wrench, and whenever I tighten them even close to what feels snug, they start to bind. The provided instructions, as pointed out, are almost useless in describing how to use the red-spacer properly. I haven't had much luck searching online for answers...

[l33boy]

Sorry for the late reply, I've been on holiday.
First question.... do the bearing cups fit snuggly up to the frames BB shell?
secondly, is the shell width 68mm?
If both answers are yes then there should be no binding at all, my RD2's spin freely when torqued up tightly.

edit: Oh yes, the red spacer is an over-engineered washer to protect the BB.
Does it bind if you leave the spacer out? or does that make it too loose?