howto make shimano di2 male connectors plug

[mgiaro]

Hi everyone.
As I got form this site so much info and suggestion for the special application of the dura ace di2 for disabled cyclists, I hope thisi pato will help for one of the still unsoluted question: the male connector of dura ace, that are out of standard.

well I did a male connector (or batter a rougt version) but as the fisrt trial was super ok (and easy and CHEAP!!) iI share the method sure that many other people will contribute and refine!

Basically, i got only 3 small pins (as don't need flightdeck connection) and plugged in the right place.
First, i put a nylon protection on the female plug. Than with simple bi component epoxy I modelled (very bad, to be honest) the material aorund and inside the three pins, lokking that they remeins SEPARATED.

tha waited 20 minutes...and it's super ok!! No interference, no problems, strong enough. Next stap will be boxing and modelling before (insted of sanding after!). But it's a good start, believe me!

This solution permits to have homemade shifters and no warrianty breaking for the "brain" of he sistem!!

Any suggestion contributions is more than welcome!!
Marcone - Italy

[pritchet74]

That's freakin' brilliant!

[mgiaro]

That's freakin' brilliant!

...

"brilliant" said from a guru pioneer of di2 massive hacking...


I'm working on some more fine plug.
I think is better first solder or connect cables, then put all togheter with resin and a plug housing. And it's done!

[Ypsylon]

It's a rather uncomplicated but elegant solution, I'd say brilliant as well.

Do you have a general plan about water proofing the system? I guess some heat shrink should do?

[mgiaro]

another simple idea for connecting original shimano shifter (sprinter or satellite) DIRECTLY to the "brain" without using the brake/handle (for example for mountain bike or shimagnolo...) is this one:
- you put three cutted pins into the right holes (you have three straight little pole coming out from the plug)

- put a piece of bi-adhesive tape pressing so the three pole can "drill" the tape

- you connect the other female plug to thie three pole, press so the bi-adhesive tape make a first insulation.
Than other tape and heat srhink...and it's done!!

[mgiaro]

Ladies and gentlemen...

Now we have ALL we need... ALL!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYEtMC05wC0

[eliflap]

stunning work , marcone !

ciao

[danridesbikes]

what size are the pins?

thanks

[phoon]

Just finished my build with full internal P4. This is how I made the connectors.
Start with PCB pins and tin them with solder. I was connecting to Cateye buttons, so carefully stripped the cables approx 8mm using a scalpel. Tin these bare wires also.
Then slightly wrap the wires around the pins and hold them on while you solder the wire to the pin. Use pliers not fingers. If you have to ask why, then try it fingers first -
Then slide a piece of heat shrink over each wire ensuring that there is no possibility of short circuits. The two bare wires from each cable join together to make the common (green) wire which fits opposite the wave form at the top of the female connector.

Base Bar switch assembly

I didn't make a male connector as such, because you end up with something that is the same. Plug the 3 wires into the female connector after first sliding some heat shrink over all the wires. The bare wires have to go into the earth hole, but the other two can go either way round. they affect which button is the up and which is the down. You need to make this decision now as it is not possible past this point.

Preassembly before epoxy

Check the operation of the buttons.
Mix up some epoxy and dab a small amount between the three wires taking care that you do not put any near the female connector as the epoxy will ooze out following the next step.
Slide the heat shrink over the Cateye wires until it is almost touching the female connector. Heat away. Since the epoxy is still curing the heat shrink will pull the cables together and make a neat unit.
check the button operation again as this is your last chance if a pin has pulled away. Once the epoxy has cured you can pull the connector apart and reroute as necessary. I took a short cut and slide a second heat shrink over the female connector and joined the whole lot before the epoxy had cured. This meant I could start packaging everything as I went.
As always, preparation and time are the key. Also, using a good soldering iron and solder makes the job much easier.

[mgiaro]

last idea is super good. I was also thinking about something like that so you can choose and change the button function (shift up and down).

Pin size is the one of cannon pin
like this
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/268209 ... 0l003.html

but if I'll have time (very difficult) I'll take a measure.
Marco