So here we are back for another quick update on the worlds lightest Pro XL bmx bike. Last post covered the hubs, this time we’ll keep going with some more of the wheel components.
First off we have some rims that Velocity made for us using their A23 extrusion. Not terribly expensive at around $90 per rim, which is really quite affordable for a one off. This set came in at a very consistent 282 grams each for a 32 hole version.
Mated to that will be some Tioga Powerband and Powerblock tires. The front 1.85 came in right at claimed weight but the rear 1.75 was a portly 20 grams over claimed weight. Still not considered heavy by any means.
Filling the tire will be some special tubes from Switzerland. Made by Eclipse these are the by far the lightest option for a tube, but at $68 per tube they are actually more expensive than the kevlar based tires that will wrap them. At 40 grams per tube though, the rotational weight savings is hard to pass up at any cost.
Added to the rear hub we also have the titanium 13t cog from Recon, Kcnc spacer kit, Parts of Passion lockring, and Control Tech titanium bolt on kit.
Coming soon, the custom made spokes and more of the components. We also begin fabrication of the custom frame in a couple weeks when NAHBS is over.
| Component | Model | Weight | Price |
| Front Hub | Tune Mig45 | 61 gr | $310 |
| Rear Hub | Tune Mag150 | 146 gr | $1,195 |
| Front Rim | Velocity A23 | 282 gr | $90 |
| Rear Rim | Velocity A23 | 282 gr | $90 |
| Front tire | Tioga Powerband | 269 gr | $60 |
| Rear tire | Tioga Powerblock | 302 gr | $60 |
| Front tube | Eclipse | 40 gr | $68 |
| Rear tube | Eclipse | 40 gr | $68 |
| Cog | Recon Ti 13T | 6 gr | $35 |
| Lockring | POP | 4 gr | $20 |
| Bolt on kit | Control Tech ti | 29 gr | $60 |
| Spacer kit | Kcnc | 19 gr | $20 |
Hey I see a 13t cog, 99.99% of real race bikes run a 44/16 set up, if you want to be realistic you need a bigger cog. Also the Tioga sspec tires are an awesome choice but the 1.75 is actually a lot taller than a normal 1.75 in another brand. If I was building this I would be using the 1.6 as its very close to a standard 1.75 and a lot lighter. In reality to save as much weight as possible you should run 1.6 front and rear.
I disagree that you need a 44/16 setup. 99.99% of real race bikes is probably true, but I don’t understand the logic, and commenter Jason has not provided any reasoning as to why one should stick with 44/16 when there are other (lighter) options. Can someone explain to me why 25/9 gearing is not making the jump onto race bikes?
Also, 40g tubes are unbelievably light, but just curious if you could use a Stans NoTubes kit instead and how would the weight compare?